Valentino Returns to Roman Roots with Alessandro Michele’s ‘Interferenze’ Collection

Two months following the death of founder Valentino Garavani, the fashion house paid homage to its heritage with a powerful presentation at Rome’s historic Palazzo Barberini. Creative director Alessandro Michele unveiled his newest collection, titled ‘Interferenze,’ before an audience that included Giancarlo Giammetti, Garavani’s former business partner, and actress Gwyneth Paltrow, a long-standing brand ambassador.

The collection’s name, meaning ‘interference’ in Italian, symbolizes the creative dialogue between Michele’s contemporary vision and Valentino’s established legacy. Michele described his approach as exploring contrasts: ‘Lightness and gravity, rule and profusion, transparency and opacity, conformity and transgression.’ This philosophy of embracing opposites became the foundation for the entire presentation.

Central to Michele’s inspiration was the concept of fashion as female empowerment. ‘A woman in charge of herself and her own body—that was something Mr. Valentino always understood. Placing women at the heart of everything: Roman elegance combined with Parisian sophistication. This influenced me deeply and seemed like the right direction forward,’ Michele explained during backstage interviews.

Throughout his tenure at the house, Michele has been developing his distinct aesthetic while honoring Valentino’s DNA. He views this process as an ongoing conversation that extends beyond the brand’s signature red color and dramatic evening wear. ‘Red carries the same symbolic weight as the double Gs did during my time at Gucci. I always include a red dress,’ Michele noted, referencing this season’s streamlined version featuring structured shoulders and a gracefully draped cowl neckline.

The day began with guests exploring an exhibition at the Valentino Foundation’s PM23 venue in central Rome. The display highlighted pieces from the late 1980s and early 1990s, presented alongside Michele’s personal sculptures and artworks that seemed to continue the narrative of those historical garments. Michele emphasized his interest in rediscovering ‘that hedonism’ from an overlooked period in fashion history.

The runway presentation clearly drew from this era’s aesthetic. Models wore floor-sweeping fur coats and broad-shouldered leather jackets cinched with contrasting sash belts. Rich taffeta skirts in jewel tones and sumptuous velvet dresses were styled with pastel hosiery, creating a mood reminiscent of 1980s cinema. Dramatic necklines extended from collar to waist, often featuring lace bodysuits or deliberately unbuttoned silk blouses.

Accessories reinforced Michele’s theme of creative tension. Futuristic wraparound sunglasses contrasted with ornate baroque pearl necklaces and cascading crystal earrings that nearly touched the models’ collarbones. The styling was completed with ankle-strap heels and the house’s iconic Rockstud footwear.

Despite being only a teenager during the 1980s, Michele remains captivated by the decade’s energy. ‘There was excitement, optimism, creativity—we possessed an extraordinary vision,’ he reflected. The fashion house embodied this same spirit during that period, with designs that captured the era’s atmosphere of luxury and aspiration.

However, Michele acknowledges that today’s Valentino operates in a vastly different context—one characterized by the uncertainty and challenges of the 2020s. Nevertheless, he appears prepared to address these contemporary realities through his designs. ‘It’s my responsibility,’ he concluded, ‘to bring tension to everything.’